Neighborhood Notes

As a longtime fan of the Southeast Woodstock eatery Delta Café and their succulent fried chicken, I was excited to discover that the architects of that deliciousness had opened a new location right here in our 'hood. Nestled on the North Mississippi strip near chic boutiques and wellness centers peddling yoga, you will find a little piece of Southern heaven called Miss Delta.

Where Delta Café (now in the hands of a new owner) definitely had a Southeast Portland feel, the vibe at Miss Delta is more Deep South with a Portland twist. The narrow, but long space is framed by exposed brick on which hangs a series of large photographs of apothecary bottles (superimposed with what looks like beehive imagery), all of which have been hand stained with beeswax by the artist to give them a soft sepia tone. The centerpiece of Miss Delta is the bar, wrapped in an aged-looking, rusted sheet metal piece that showcases Portland's bridges (St. Johns is the first you'll see when you enter). Lit by mismatched, but stately chandeliers and filled with old black-and-white photographs, Miss Delta's charm lies in the feelings of warmth that come from the décor, the down-home food and the sassy/sweet wait staff.

The menu kicks off its appetizers with such Southern specialties as pan-fried oysters ($10), sweet-potato fries ($6), fried okra ($5), hush puppies ($4), and even a Caesar salad that you can add catfish to. And, although Miss Delta has plenty of alcoholic libations to whet your whistle, to really quench a thirst I recommend the 32 oz. lemonade served in a wide-mouthed mason jar.

Miss Delta's food is kickin' and the portions are king-sized. Scan the menu here and you realize that "light" or "diet plate" is not on the agenda and to this I say hooray! The main courses are hearty and soulful with such offerings as fried catfish, roasted chicken, ribs, blackened steak with bleu cheese, fried chicken, meatloaf, jambalaya, and gumbo. All of these luscious wonders are served with your choice of two sides, which are just as decadent: collard greens cooked in stewed pork and slivered onions (divine), red beans and rice (mild but flavorful), blacked-eyed peas over rice, mashed potatoes and vegan gravy, and mac and cheese (sinfully good). On the night I went they were also offering a special side of au gratin potatoes that I happily took them up on and I was not disappointed. These are not the fussy upscale French au gratin potatoes you may be used to - Miss Delta's are thick-cut, skin-on red potatoes baptized in the golden glow of cheesy seasoned goodness, drippingly rich and saucy.

As I sat munching on juicy, but crisply seasoned fried chicken and sampling delicately flavored but not over-battered catfish served with a cocktail/horseradish dipping sauce, I found myself contentedly singing along to the likes of Tina Turner's Nut Bush City Limits - the raw, soulful warbling of Ms. Turner accenting my experience and underscoring the beauty that is Miss Delta: its simplicity. The dishes here are stripped of over-complications - no one in the kitchen is trying to fuse anything or reinvent the wheel. What they are doing (and doing well) is bringing Portland a little piece of down-home Southern flair in an authentic way that pays homage without parody or kitsch, fittingly, on Mississippi.

Miss Delta, 3950 N Mississippi Ave., (503) 287-7629, open daily 5 p.m. to 12 a.m.