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October 15,2008
Essential Ingredients of Great Neighborhood Breakfast Spots
by pearlgirl
Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, especially when it's shared with good friends at a favorite local breakfast spot. But, breakfast can easily become the most frustrating meal of the day if you pick the wrong restaurant. We all know this place: the notoriously long wait and poor service makes otherwise stellar food regrettable.
I used to be convinced that a long wait and poor service were hallmarks of a great neighborhood breakfast spot—they're so busy, it must be worth it! Not so much anymore. Over time, I've learned to separate the, um, buckwheat from the chaff. In addition to consistently delicious food and coffee, I've learned that truly great neighborhood breakfast joints share some other key ingredients: they serve breakfast every day, have a diverse mix of patrons, are reasonably priced, and, above all, they have an efficient process.
Breakfast Served Daily
Good food is not an accident. Great breakfast restaurants serve it every day, not just weekends. Practice, as they say, makes perfect. And, it's nice to have the option of going out to breakfast during the week and avoiding the weekend rush.
Diverse Mix of Diners
Great breakfast restaurants attract a diverse mix of patrons. Look for the hipster sporting aviator sunglasses seated next to sleep-deprived parents with busy toddlers, the overly-affectionate couple seated next to the single absorbed in the paper, or the party girl with bedhead seated next to the slick socialite. The reason for the diversity is simple: everyone feels welcome and comfortable. These neighborhood restaurants welcome everyone with open arms—and everyone eats there.
Reasonable Prices
Affordability is key. Breakfast should never break the bank. If you want something fancy, go to brunch.
Efficient Process (the gold standard)
Some breakfast spots do everything they can to be efficient and minimize your wait time. A great breakfast place is going to draw a crowd, but it's how they handle the crowd that makes all the difference.
- DIY Wait List Busy breakfast joints cut wait time by offering a Do-It-Yourself waitlist. There's no hostess taking your name—just a sign up sheet, usually on a clipboard with a pen, where you sign up for a table. Servers usually man these lists and take diners to a table as soon as it is open. Best of all, with a DIY wait list you don't have to witness the hostess have a meltdown.
- Self-Serve Quality Coffee Immediate access to coffee—make that good coffee—is vital. Restaurants that offer self-serve coffee stations get high marks. Diners can get caffeinated while they wait and caffeinate as necessary through their meal. Maintaining a self-serve coffee station is as important as having one.
- Streamlined Service If a restaurant has an efficient process, the server can make fewer trips to every table. In fact, some steps of service can even be combined: the greet/take the order or the check back/check drop are great examples.
- Pay at the Counter Genius. There's no need to flag down your server, just get up and pay your bill when you're ready.
- Cash only Processing credit cards really slows things down. It's rare, but breakfast spots that only take cash are usually speedier than those that take plastic.
My Favorite Portland Neighborhood Breakfast Spots
Southeast Portland
J&M Cafe
J&M Cafe is tops on my list of neighborhood breakfast spots. The menu is simple, but consistently fresh and well-prepared. I tend to alternate between the waffles and scrambles. Everything I've tried has been excellent. Stumptown Coffee is self-served piping hot in a well-maintained coffee station. J&M has a great collection of colorful mugs—picking *your* mug from the mug tree is a fun part of the J&M experience. The service is quick and friendly. The atmosphere—described as "casual industrial"—is really quaint and comfortable.
Pros: consistently great food and coffee, breakfast served daily, very comfortable, cheap, DIY wait list, well-maintained self-serve coffee station, pay at the counter, cash only; Bonus: outdoor seating when weather permits, VooDoo Doughnuts, ATM machine, counter seats
J&M Café
537 SE Ash St
503.230.0463
Mon-Fri 7:30 a.m.-2 p.m., Sat-Sun 8 a.m.-2 p.m.
***
Northeast Portland
Tin Shed Garden Cafe

I know, I know, Tin Shed usually has long waits on weekends—get there early or go during the week for best results. But, they do a really great job keeping the masses moving and caffeinated. Tin Shed has a much more ambitious menu than J&M Cafe and they also serve cocktails. These two little extras really slow things down, but if you want something beyond typical breakfast fare and a bloody mary (or two) this is a great place to get it. I'm a fan of the Belly Pleaser (coconut milk, jasmine rice, fresh ginger & vanilla simmered into a porridge and topped with fresh mango & cinnamon) and Sin (House-baked sweet potato brioche french toast dusted with powdered sugar and served with fresh fruit). I love the diverse mix of diners, which even includes pooches—yes! you can actually bring your dog to breakfast (check out the doggy menu) and enjoy a meal with your best pal on the patio.
Pros: consistently great food and coffee, breakfast served daily, very comfortable, moderately priced, DIY wait list, well-maintained self-serve coffee station; Cons: extremely popular—there's a wait almost every day (go early for best results) Bonus: great (heated) patio, cocktails and DOG-FRIENDLY
503.288.6966
www.tinshedgardencafe.com
Mon-Tue 7:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.
Wed-Thu 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m.
Fri-Sat 7:00 a.m.-11:00 p.m.
Sun 7:00 a.m.-10:00 p.m.
***
Northwest Portland
Stepping Stone Cafe
***
North Portland
DiPrima Dolci
Do you have any favorite neighborhood breakfast spots? Dish!!!





